Day 278: Glenelg to Totaig – beside the Isle of Skye

Ross-shire - West, Scotland

Date of walk: 14/3/19

Bernera Barracks were built by the British to subdue the local population during the Jacobite Rising of 1715. This one was to guard the Skye crossing. Stone was plundered from the Glenelg Brochs according to an archaeological report (M E M Donaldson 1923), Glenelg, Scotland.

“How far does that thing go?” a Yorkshireman enquires pointing at my telephoto lens, “300” I reply. “Mine’s 400” he says, evidently satisfied he’s bested me. “How many megapixels then?”, “50” I reply, “mine’s 20” he responds crestfallen before adding “Well you’re rich and I’m not”. And so ends our bizarre conversation which was the first time I’d met anyone or spoken in two days uttering only the words “300” & “50”.

Bernera Barracks II, Glenelg, Scotland.

Bernera Barracks III, Glenelg, Scotland.

Bernera Barracks IV, Glenelg, Scotland.

Bernera Barracks V, Glenelg, Scotland.

Glenelg to Skye slipway II, Scotland.

The Glenelg cattle droving ramp, the only one of its kind in Scotland & once the primary droving route out of the islands. Cattle droving was vital to the local economy between the 16th & late 19th centuries with as many as 8,000 cattle swimming across the Kyle Rhea each year, Glenelg, Scotland.

The Thomas Telford designed slipway to Skye covered with a modern concrete screed, Glenelg, Scotland.

The Glenelg cattle droving ramp, Scotland.

Glenelg to Skye slipway, Scotland.

Skye Bridge under a heavy sky, Loch Alsh, Scotland.

Ardintoul House destroyed by fire in 2012. The house was built in the 1700s for the MacRae family after the destruction of their nearby hereditary stronghold Eilean Donan Castle during the Jacobite risings. Scotland.

Silence I. Ardintoul Wood, Scotland.

Silence II. Ardintoul Wood, Scotland.

Silence III. Ardintoul Wood, Scotland.

Silence IV. Ardintoul Wood, Scotland.

Silence V. Ardintoul Wood, Scotland.

Silence V. Ardintoul Wood, Scotland.

Skye Bridge at dusk, Loch Alsh, Scotland.

The massive triangular lintel over the doorway of Totaig Iron Age Broch near Loch Alsh, Scotland.

Doorway of Totaig Broch from the interior with Dornie beyond, Scotland.

Totaig Broch by Loch Alsh with entrance to stairway between the two concentric walls at lower right, Scotland.

Last Light, Ardelve Point, Scotland.

Eilean Donan Castle and Dornie at dusk, Loch Duich, Scotland 2019. (A few seals on Sgeir Dhubh in the foreground too that I hadn’t noticed at the time)

Eilean Donan across Loch Duich before retreating to the tent, Scotland.


Totaig Broch, plan and elevevation.

How Totaig Broch may have looked (from info panel on site)

I left my tracker in my pocket when I went searching for firewood!

Bernera Barracks, Glenelg
Kyle Rhea above the slipways.
Turning the corner from Kyle Rhea to follow Loch Alsh.
Into the silence of Ardintoul Wood.
Neglected treehouse at Ardintoul.
Inside Totaig Broch.
Fire building on a soggy night at Totaig.
Waiting to warm up, inside and out.
Breaking camp at Totaig by Loch Duich opposite Eilean Donan castle.

The Perimeter is a labour of love: it’s taken 454 days of walking, hundreds of hours of planning and thousands of hours of editing. If you have the means, I’d appreciate your support by buying a print or contributing so I can continue to share the project with you.

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British Architectural & Landscape Photographer.

10 thoughts on “Day 278: Glenelg to Totaig – beside the Isle of Skye”

  1. kevan hubbard says:

    Shame about the floodlit castle 🏰 given all the daylight hours people have to look at such stonemasonry and lecturing us about not leaving TV’s on standby when we go out whilst at the same time floodlighting buildings destroying our night sky.Also involving the night sky, artificial lighting and weather permitting, regarding the Yorkshireman’s question,”how far can it see?”I was in the Viking optical shop in Edinburgh a few years ago and some people where speculating how far they’d be able to see with a certain pair of binoculars and one said Ben Lomond, presumably from the top of Arthur’s Seat?.I joined in ,”much further than that the Andromeda Spiral Galaxy 2.5 million light years away!”although that’s the most remote naked eye object so probably about 51 million light years with normal binoculars the galaxy M81 in Ursa Major….I wonder if whoever lights up that castle thinks about that and the damage they are doing?….no I thought not!

    • It’s such an icon, I don’t mind it floodlit given its symbolic location and that thousands driving past will see it. I should have said the Andromeda Spiral Galaxy when asked how far my lens went!

  2. Stunning! Simply gorgeous photos. Thank you so much for taking us on this journey with you! And for all your efforts throughout the years on this project.

  3. You can see the effect the 50M pixels have on the photos (i noticed the detail on another post). I think you certainly outdo the extra 100mm!

Whether you have comments on the photos, some knowledge or a personal story on this area you’d like to share, or you’ve spotted a typo or error, I’d love to hear your thoughts.